The modern region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur in southeast France
About provence
The MEDITERRANEAN, Marseilles, Cassis
Marseilles, the second city of France, settled on one of the most sumptuous bays in the world, is really worth a visit in spite of the bad reputation this sea port has since the Second World War.
The city offers a contrasting face looking sometimes like a huge metropolis and sometimes like a village. As the most ancient city of France, it teaches a lot about the history of Provence.
The Greeks founded the town in 600 BC and were followed by the Romans. A few ruins can still be seen.
The city, born from the sea, has kept its maritime and commercial vocation for 26 centuries. That's why Marseilles was considered as the gateway to the Orient and Africa, the gateway of the French Colonial Empire and it exhaled a perfume of exoticism.
Marseilles is the first commercial port in the Mediterranean Sea for its volume of traffic, fourth port of Europe, the town still presents a cosmopolitan nature.
Dominated by the church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde which watches over the people of Marseilles, the old Port, where the commercial and maritime activities took place until the 19th century, has been the witness to this history and is one of the most picturesque places of the city. On the South side of the Old Port, the Saint-Victor Abbey brings us back to the early Middle Ages, to the first Christians and to the time the Abbey was one of the most important of Occident.
Then, there is the fabulous "Corniche Kennedy" with its sumptuous 19th century houses and mansions of the upper merchant class. It provides a marvellous viewpoint to admire the island of "Chateau d'If" made famous by Alexandre Dumas in his novel "le Comte de Monte Cristo" and the "Frioul Islands" that lie close to the bay of Marseilles.
Nearby, the little fishing port of Cassis with its coloured facades and its amazing vineyards will be the ideal stop to end a perfect day in Provence tasting the excellent white wine produced in the area on one of the terraces of the Port. As the Provençal writer Frederic Mistral said about it "Anyone who has seen Paris, but not Cassis, hasn't seen anything".
No stop in Marseilles or Cassis is complete without seeing les Calanques, rocky inlets, a type of little fjords offering a stunning and fabulous unviolated countryside, unique in the world. Limestone cliffs plunge into a deep blue sea. Sormiou, Morgiou, Sugiton, En Vau, are a paradise to hike, climb and dive or simply swim.
THROUGH VILLAGES IN LUBERON
Everywhere in Provence you will be charmed by quaint villlages so very often perched on rocky outcrops, which were inherited from the Ligurians and rebuilt in the early Middle Ages due to the different waves of invasions which surged through the country after the Romans.
The Luberon mountain range, stretching over 60 kilometers from Cavaillon to Villeneuve, offers a combination of sumptuous countryside and beautiful stone architecture.
There is the quiet and calm countryside with lavender fields, cherry tree groves dominated by medieval hilltop villages which contrast with impressive high cliffs and rough plateaux.
It was here that the first religious conflicts between Catholics and Protestants arose in the 16th century; so the area is very interesting from the historical point of view.
The memory of this very rich history is sometimes still visible in the stones of the villages.
The peaceful Lourmarin seduces you with its Renaissance castle, its Protestant church and quiet streets with nice little stores and art galleries. The hilltop Bonnieux is like a sentinel watching over the Calavon Valley as well as the famous village of Gordes.
The mysterious Lacoste with the haunting ruins of the castle of the Marquis de Sade invites you to contemplate the wonderful countryside.
All these villages offer enchanting architectural walks with many ancient monuments : castles, fountains, churches... It's always a real pleasure to wander in the little cobbled streets admiring the houses which are very well preserved and restored.
DISCOVER OLIVE TREES in the footsteps of Van Gogh
The range of les Alpilles presents you with a very soft countryside with olive tree groves. This is the best area for olive oil in Provence. All year round, it's a pleasure to come accross the orchards but in November and December there is a very lively spectacle, the picking of olives and people going to the windmill.
Tasting the local speciality of "olives cassées" and the new olive oil is an unbelievable experience. Also vineyards add to the beauty of the countryside and invite you to taste the excellent Provencal wines!
The mental institution of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole (former medieval priory) where he stayed is worh a visit.
The Southern part of the small mountain range harbours the village of les Baux-de-Provence. It offers a particular silhouette with the ruins of its castle on the top of a high cliff. Rock outcrops are present everywhere weathered into strange shapes.
The cobbled streets of les Baux-de-Provence bring you back to the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period when the village was Protestant. The history of this rebelious fortress destroyed under the order of the King of France unfolds as you walk around.
LIFESTYLES: markets, food and wine
Wine tour, gourmet tour, visiting markets and a shopping adventure are a part of the life in Provence.
Local markets are a feast to the eyes with their coloured fruits and vegetables, their scents and picturesque people. Every village, every city has its market. Flea markets, antique fairs and artisan markets play an important part in the life of local people. Seeing Aix-en-Provence on a market day is a delightful spectacle.
Going to l'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on a Sunday morning is paradise as there are more than 300 sucessful antique dealers, many with an international reputation. Strolling around on a Sunday morning is sheer bliss. You'll find in these markets all the specialities that make Provence famous: Provencal fabrics with bright colors, potteries, vegetal soaps, olive oil, goat cheese, herbs, honey, olive oil, lavender... all are worth taking back as a souvenir of Provence.
The markets invite us to taste the delicious Provencal cooking and local wines. Everywhere you will be seduced by a sunny terrace or a shady vine arbour to savour delicious Provencal specialities so completely Mediterranean, but at the same time so specifically Provencal: bouillabaisse, tapenade, anchoiade, stuffed vegetables, brandade de morue, eggplant cake, ratatouille…
With a nice local wine… Since Provence possesses the oldest vineyards of France, there are wines of quality in the three colours. The Greeks and the Romans developed wine growing in the area. This activity has stayed alive throughout centuries. The perfect growing conditions explain this success: a poor earth , the sun, perfect ventilation with the wind called "mistral", a good rainfall.
Among the eleven appellations of Provence, some are very prestigious such as the labels of the Southern Rhône Valley, Châteauneuf du Pape for example. Others are well worth discovering. They all give an opportunity to make unforgettable trips through marvellous Provencal domains, crossing fabulous countryside, entering delightful villages, seeing many ancient monuments, meeting passionate wine growers. Another way to discover Provence!
PROVENCAL TOWNS: Avignon or Aix en Provence?
Great moments in Provence are provided through strolling the streets of the classical Aix-en-Provence or on the Rocher des Doms in Avignon looking at the medieval monuments of the city.
Avignon, Prow on the Rhône river, a trip throughout the Middle Ages: "Climbing" to the Rocher des Doms in Avignon will give you another emotional experience. It dominates the powerful Rhône river with its famous bridge and the bucolic scenery of the Barthelasse island. This "ascent" helps you to understand the choice of this location for the city since this rock is obviously a natural shelter.
On the other side of the river, is the lovely city of Villeneuve-les-Avignon, this symbol of the King of France was facing the county of Provence at the time Provence was independent.
The 14th century walls still surrounding the city and the Palace of the Popes immerse you in the Middle Ages when the Popes made this quiet city of Provence the capital of Christendom. You will be impressed by the immensity and majesty of the monument built by the 7 Popes who sat in Avignon in the 14th century. The huge banquet rooms, the frescoes, the coloured floor tiles will give you an idea of the Pope’s life at that time.
Aix-en-Provence, a trip into the classical period:
Aix-en-Provence, one of the oldest Roman cities of Provence, is among the most attractive: its sumptuous 17th and 18th century architecture, its mansions and fountains singing everywhere, its lively streets and lovely stores, its markets and cafés… these combine to make a very special and unique Provencal athmosphere within Aix.
When the sun is highlighting the golden facades of the mansions of the city it's a fascinating and unforgettable spectacle.
No stay in Aix-en-Provence is complete without walking in the footsteps of the painter Paul Cezanne, a native of the city who made its surroundings famous especially the impressive Sainte-Victoire mountain range which was one of his favourite subjects.
ROMANS IN PROVENCE
Provence is the part of Gaul that was first conquered by the Romans. They founded many cities and introduced their culture there and now 2 thousand years later there are many remains of their brilliant civilization.
The quiet city of Arles was one of the most important Roman cities of the South of Gaul and offers important witnesses to this past splendour: the Roman theatre, built at the time of Augustus, (1st century BC) was sumptuously ornate; the amphitheatre (1st century AD) is a remarkable monument and helps us to understand the organization of gladiator and hunting games. The lovers of bullfights can see their favourite spectacle in the arena of Arles and lovers of music can listen to concerts in the Roman theatre where listening to Mozart is a moving experience. The Roman theatre of Orange, with its stage wall still standing, is another remarkable example of public architecture and allows us to imagine a Roman mime show.
Another monument emblematic of the Roman civilization is visible in Nimes: the Maison Carrée which is among the best preserved Roman temples in the world. It was an important construction of the Roman forum of Nimes and is of great quality with its remarkable foliage frieze.
The Mausoleum of Glanum (1st century BC) is another very interesting and unique monument that shows that the local wealthy families adopted the Roman way of life very early. Nearby, the Roman Arch (1st century AD) celebrating the benefits of the Roman Peace was the entrance of the antique town of Glanum and presents some interesting bas-reliefs.
The impressive Pont du Gard still presents its particular silhouette on the Garon river. Monumental but light and elegant, it is part of the 50 km long aqueduct providing the town of Nimes with water.
Everywhere, the remains of Roman baths, like in Arles, illustrate this social Roman ritual which drew the whole population to the baths everyday.
The antique cities of Glanum and Vaison-la-Romaine both present another feature of the Roman civilization with interesting examples of private constructions such as villas. They show us the magnificence of Roman civilization in Provence: wide Roman streets; splendid and huge private houses with mosaics; marble; statues; atria; gardens; pools and private baths…
PAINTERS IN PROVENCE
Cézanne, van Gogh, Gauguin, Picasso, Signac, Matisse, Braque, Derain, Dufy… Many great names.They all worked in Provence and loved this land so generous in colours, bright light, interesting subjects and attractive culture where they could find their inspiration.
Born in Aix-en-Provence, Cézanne explored new ways of painting in this city and its surroundings and thus opened the door to modern painting like cubism. This tendency is particularly evident in the last series of canvasses of Sainte-Victoire when he was perfecting his art.
Van Gogh made Arles and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence famous worldwide; the mountain range of les Apilles; olive trees and cypress trees so emblematic of Provence anticipating expressionism.
Cézanne, the master of Aix attracted many other painters to the area like Picasso who found in Provence what his natal Spain could nolonger offer him, for example the bullfighting in Arles which reminded him of his own country.
Several paintings of the amphitheatre of Arles and of his wife Jacqueline, represented like the ladies of Arles, are his tribute to the land of Provence where he is buried in his castle of Vauvenargues on the south side of Sainte-Victoire.
CUISINE
The cuisine of Provence is the result of the warm, dry Mediterranean climate; the rugged landscape, good for grazing sheep and goats but, outside of the Rhone Valley, with poor soil for large-scale agriculture; and the abundant seafood on the coast. The basic ingredients are olives and olive oil; garlic; sardines, rockfish, sea urchins and octopus; lamb and goat; chickpeas; local fruits, such as grapes, peaches, apricots, strawberries, cherries, and the famous melons of Cavaillon.
The fish frequently found on menus in Provence are the rouget, a small red fish usually eaten grilled, and the loup, (known elsewhere in France as the bar), often grilled with fennel over the wood of grapevines.
- Aïoli is a thick emulsion sauce made from olive oil flavored with crushed garlic. It often accompanies a bourride, a fish soup, or is served with potatoes and cod (fr. Morue). There are as many recipes as there are families in Provence.
- Bouillabaisse is the classic seafood dish of Marseille. The traditional version is made with three fish: scorpionfish, sea robin, and European conger, plus an assortment of other fish and shellfish, such as John Dory, monkfish, sea urchins, crabs and sea spiders included for flavor. The seasoning is as important as the fish, including salt, pepper, onion, tomato, safron, fennel, sage, thyme, bay laurel, sometimes orange peel, and a cup of white wine or cognac. In Marseille the fish and the broth are served separately – the broth is served over thick slices of bread with rouille (see below.)
- Brandade de Morue is a thick cream made of cod crushed and mixed with olive oil, milk, garlic and sometimes truffles.
- Daube provençale is a stew made with cubed beef braised in wine, vegetables, garlic, and herbes de provence. Variations also call for olives, prunes, and flavoring with duck fat, vinegar, brandy, lavender, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, juniper berries, or orange peel. For best flavor, it is cooked in several stages, and cooled for a day between each stage to allow the flavors to meld together. In the Camargue area of France, bulls killed in the bullfighting festivals are sometimes used for daube.
- Escabeche is another popular seafood dish; the fish (usually sardines) are either poached or fried after being marinated overnight in vinegar or citrus juice.
- Fougasse is the traditional bread of Provence, round and flat with holes cut out by the baker. Modern versions are baked with olives or nuts inside.
- Oursinade is the name of a sauce based on the coral of the sea urchin, and usually is used with fish, and also refers to a tasting of sea urchins.
- La pissaladière is another speciality of Nice. Though it resembles a pizza, it is made with bread dough and the traditional variety never has a tomato topping. It is usually sold in bakeries, and is topped with a bed of onions, lightly browned, and a kind of paste, called pissalat, made from sardines and anchovies, and the small black olives of Nice, called caillettes.
- Ratatouille is a traditional dish of stewed vegetables, which originated in Nice.
- Rouille is a mayonnaise with red pimentos, often spread onto bread and added to fish soups.
- Socca is a speciality of Nice – it is a round flat cake made of chickpea flour and olive oil, like the Italian farinata. It is baked in the oven in a large pan more than a meter in diameter, then seasoned with pepper and eaten with the fingers while hot. In Toulon socca is known as La Cade
- Soupe au pistou, either cold or hot, usually made with fresh basil ground and mixed with olive oil, along with summer vegetables, such as white beans, green beans, tomatoes, summer squash, and potatoes.
- Tapenade is a relish consisting of pureed or finely chopped olives, capers, and olive oil, usually spread onto bread and served as an hors d'œuvre.
- The calisson is the traditional cookie of Aix-en-Provence, made from a base of almond paste flavored with confit of melon and orange. They have been made in Aix-en-Provence since the 17th century.
- The gâteau des Rois is a type of epiphany cake found all over France; the Provençal version is different because it is made of brioche in a ring, flavored with the essence of orange flowers and covered with sugar and fruit confit.
- The tarte Tropézienne is a tart of pastry cream (crème pâtissière) invented by a St. Tropez pastry chef named Alexandre Micka in the 1950s, based on a recipe he brought from his native Poland. In 1955, he was chef on the set of the film And God Created Woman when actress Brigitte Bardot suggested he name the cake La Tropézienne. It is now found in bakeries throughout the Var.
- The Thirteen desserts is a Christmas tradition in Provence, when thirteen different dishes, representing Jesus and the twelve apostles, and each with a different significance, are served after the large Christmas meal.
- Herbes de Provence (or Provençal herbs) are a mixture of dried herbs from Provence which are commonly used in Provençal cooking.
PASTIS
Pastis is the traditional liqueur of Provence, flavored with anise and typically containing 40–45% alcohol by volume. When absinthe was banned in France in 1915, the major absinthe producers (then Pernod Fils and Ricard, who have since merged as Pernod Ricard) reformulated their drink without the banned wormwood and with more aniseed flavor, coming from star anise, sugar and a lower alcohol content, creating pastis. It is usually drunk diluted with water, which it turns a cloudy color. It is especially popular in and around Marseille.
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